VIENTIANE
Cath a tuk-tuk down its tree-lined boulevards or amble the newly developed river-front and you will see that Vientiane is on the up. Never before has the city enjoyed such a renaissance of style, with a proliferation of chic spas, bakeries and chichi bars blossoming at every turn; not to mention a global spectrum of restaurants catering to every palate. Add to this a vast choice of accommodation ranging from cosy guesthouse to boutique hotels and you will understand why many travelers are charmed by the place.
The French settled the city as a hub of Indochina, and elements of their era, be it the whiff of fresh-baked baguettes or evocative shuttered villas, are easy to find; indeed the style of "Indo-chic" is everywhere. Start your day at one of a number of great bakeries, take a massage, browse the city's tasteful boutiques or wander the labyrinthine streets and markets of this surprisingly compact and friendly city.

History
Vientiane was first settled as an early Lao fiefdom. Through 10 centuries of history it was variously controlled, ravaged and looted by the Vietnamese, Burmese, Siamese and Khmer. When laos became a French protectorate at the end of the 19th century, it was renamed as the capital, was rebuilt and became one of the classic Indochinese cities, along with Phnom Penh and  Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). By the early 1960s and the onset of the war in Vietnam, the city was teeming with CIA agents, madcap Ravens (maverick US Special Ops pilots) and Russian spies.
In 2009 the city hosted the Southeast Asian Games, a major illustration of the country's new profile. And while the newly constructed train line from Thailand to within a few klicks of Laos is still largely useless, China's Kunming to Vientiane express route.

Sights
The three main streets parallel to the Mekong - Th Fa Ngum, Th Setthathirat and Th Samsenthai - are the central inner city of Vientiane and, conveniently, where most of the sights, guesthouses, hotels, restaurants and bars are located.

Pha That Luang
Svelte and golden Pha Tha Luang is the most important national monument in Laos; a symbol of Buddhist religion and Lao sovereignty. Legend has it that Ashokan missionaries from India erected a tâth (stupa) here to enclose a piece of Buddha's breastbone as early as the third century BC.
A high-walled cloister with tiny windows surrounds the 45m-high stupa. The cloister measures 85m on each side and contains various Buddhas images. Pha That Luang is about 4km northeast of the city center at the end of Th That Luang.

Wat Si Saket and Haw Pha kaew
Built in 1818 by King Aouvong (Chao Anou), Wat Si Saket is the oldest temple in Vientiane and well worth a visit even if you have overdosed on temples. Wat Si Saket has several unique features.
The interior walls of the cloister are riddled with niches containing more than 2000 silver and ceramic Buddha images. More than 300 seated and standing Buddhas of varying age, size and material (Ston, wood and bronze) rest on long shelves below the niches. A Khmer-style Naga Buddha is also on display.



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